Until a few years go, the only patterns guys were concerned with were, football passing patterns, male pattern baldness and paternity tests. Thanks to the resurgence of style icons Dwyane Wade and accessibility to high variety of affordable menswear choices, men are familiarizing themselves with a different type of pattern. From glen plaid, gingham check, and windowpane, to pinstripe, Bengal stripe and tonal stripes, the number of patterns out there are enough to leave you feeling lost and confused. But don’t worry SUITABULL will guide you on the right path.
The first and most important step is to understand the categories of patterns, so let’s start there. Then we’ll go into the do’s don’ts, and the best style options for each.
Plaids
Seen here, plaids are a party all by themselves, so they seldom need much else to succeed. Plaid is like the guy that goes to the bar alone, but makes about 4 friends while he’s there. Typically, plaids will combine at least 2 or more colors, which can make them easy to confuse. However in some cases you may find a monochromatic plaid, which will provide a subdued illusion
Glen plaid—is a finer/smaller pattern within this family.
Most commonly found on suits, there are some clothiers that will make a great glen plaid shirt like Charles Tyrwhitt.
Best paired with solid or, simpler monochromatic pattern types.
Tartan plaid—is a larger festive pattern weave that derives from Scotland, and features multiple colors that criss cross. The more popular blue/green or red/green/gold combinations, target this pattern as a popular selection during the holiday season.
Most commonly found on suits, slacks, dinner jackets and Scottish kilts!
Best paired with solid (non patterned or stripes. It’s best to break up a suit and either wear the jacket with solid pants, or vice versa.
Madras—was originally known as the peasants pattern when it popped up on the scene in Chennai, India. In recent times, you’re more likely to see this sported by rich boys on Martha’s Vineyard. It's combination of different plaid designs via patchwork, presents a difficulty to coordinate. But nothing is too hard for SUITABULL to work out.
Most commonly found on sports coats and cotton pants.
Best paired with solid colored shirts and pocket square.
Gingham check—usually associated with picnic tablecloths, but has made its way from the park bench to your shirt in popular colors like blue and pink.
Most commonly found on dress and casual shirts.
Best paired with solid or wider pin striped suit, and solid pocket square.
Do tie in one of the colors within the plaid design with one if you’re articles of clothing. If your plaid suit is gray but contains a hint of blue, then make the blue pop by pairing with a shirt of a similar color. If you have a broader variety of colors in your plaid suit, choose a white shirt and solid pocket square.
Don’t think that you have to wear any other complicated patterns, DEFINITELY NOT ANOTHER PLAID CLADDED ARTICLE OF CLOTHING! Remember the plaid is the superstar here; everything else is a supporting actor.
Stripes
If you thought that stripes were only reserved for the American flag, prisoners and carnival tents, then you’re missing out. Stripes are an easy way to distinguish you from the rest as a style boss, without going too crazy.
Pinstripe—Very easy to identify, pinstripe suits are.. you guessed it, very thin stripes running vertically along the fabric. If you’re on ‘Wall Street, you’ll walk by at least a half dozen guys on one block, wearing a pinstripe suit. Yes, I’ve counted.
Most commonly found on suits, slacks, and sport coats
Best paired with solid, gingham check or Bengal stripe shirts. Paisley or polka dot pocket square.
Chalkstripe—A bit thicker than pinstripes, chalk stripes are the same, but carry a more defined line, bringing greater boldness.
Most commonly found on suits, slack and jackets
Best paired with monochromatic micro patterned shirts (like a houndstooth or solid)
Bengal stripes—Differing from both pinstripes and chalk stripes, Bengal stripes are the same in thickness and alternate in color
Most commonly found on dress shirts
Best paired with larger pattern (excluding tartan plaid) and solid suits.
Do yourself a favor and get a pinstripe suit. It will change your life.
Don’t wear other articles of pinstripe while wearing pinstripe, unless you’re a 1930’s gangster or a backup dancer in a 90’s R&B video.
Micro Patterns
So small, you can’t even see them. Actually, they don't even exist. The end. Actually these are the type of patterns that are small and most impactful when up close and personal. Only then can you appreciate the sophistication of the pattern, like an optical illusion.
Herringbone—This simple yet timeless pattern gives dimension to your typical solid fabric. The weaves form the shape of a V or Herring (fish) bone that can be seen closer up. Further away, it gives the appearance of a one-dimensional fabric.
Most commonly found on suits, sports coats and slacks
Best paired with any pattern (treat it as a solid).
Houndstooth—Traditionally, this broken checkered design arrived in heavier fabric formats, making this an appropriate moderate to colder weather application. However, today we see houndstooth and it’s smaller variation, puppytooth showing up in much lighter fabrics.
Most commonly found on suits, sports coats and slacks
Best paired with solid or larger patterned shirts and accessories
Do wear black shoes with black and white houndstooth and brown shoes with brown toned houndstooth
Don’t wear smaller patterns in your shirt or accessories that would compete with the houndstooth.
Dots and Designs
When you talk about having fun with the way that you dress, these patterns set you up for the win every time! with the variety of colors, the options are endless on how to add the perfect exclamation mark to your ensemble.
Polka dots—Not the overly large clown type, but those that are much smaller, give way to an interesting design on many accessories.
Most commonly found on accessories such as neckties, bow ties and pocket squares, but also on dinner jackets (monochromatic)
Best paired with Anything except tartan plaid!
Paisley—Closer to a floral design, paisley provides a wow factor that is seldom found anywhere else.
Most commonly found on accessories such as neckties, bow ties and pocket squares, but also found on dinner jackets (monochromatic)
Best paired with other monochromatic or striped suits, and works best when another item compliments one of the colors in the paisley fabric.
Do wear accessories that compliment or contrast the color of your ensemble
Don’t wear huge polka dots, you are not a court jester, you are a king!
Positioning Your Patterns the Right Way
As seen here, patterns are used appropriately and are well proportioned.
The thin pinstripe suit provides a neat base. The larger pattern checkered shirt doesn't compete with the smaller pattern in the suit. Notice how the orange tie draws your attention to the orange lines within the shirt. To top it off, the pocket square contains multiple colors, but is anchored by the solid white base, tying in the white of the shirt, while the citrus and blue colors play off of the tie, shirt and suit. Finally, the Pink and purple offer a wild card to keep the eyes interested!
When used appropriately, patterns will certainly help a gentlemen to take his look to the next level, but in the wrong hands, patterns can cause dizziness, loss of employment and side eye from women of interest.
If you’re ever in doubt, feel free to give us a shout at contact@suitabull.com or 516-447-0487 and we will take care of your styling needs.
Stay SUITABULL guys.