Most people have a "top 5" crew of friends, there’s the smooth talker, the jokester, the jerk, the peacekeeper and the tough guy. However, most people don't realize they need a 6th man... The TAILOR a.k.a. the Alter(ation) ego! Finding yourself a good tailor is one of those jewels of wisdom that every man, young or old should receive. This should fall right up there with opening doors for ladies, always being honest, and paying your taxes up front. For examples on why that last one is important, Google “Wesley Snipes taxes” 😁.
Like any other friend, there are certain characteristics that you should look for in a tailor. Stuff like someone who won't take your girl behind your back or take pictures of you in compromising positions while you're drunk, and post it on Facebook, aren't as critical here. When considering a tailor, much more obvious characteristics are in play and are best described as
Top Ten Tailor Traits:
1–Listener—The tailor must listen to what you want. Understanding your needs and preferences is key to a good relationship.
2–Trustworthy—Trust in his or her abilities is important but the ability to trust your tailor with your areas of issue and insecurity (when it comes to the fit of your suits) is also important. Remember this is your tailor not your therapist.. Although getting a suit fitted could be therapeutic.. 🤔
3–Skillful—No “wack jobs” that do hack jobs. Last thing you want is to end up in a Gordon Gartrell type of situation.
For those that want the back-story Google “Cosby Show Gordon Gartrell."
4–Test alteration— Have a test alteration done on an older suit that you won’t be upset about, should your potential tailor end up being a hack job (see bullet #3). This way, there's no material loss, only a few dollars.
5–Attention to detail— A tailors hand should be precise, not approximate; meaning no loose threads, crooked seams and ensuring the clothing is pressed after alterations.
6–Available— If your tailor works 2 hours a day, 2 days a week, 2 weeks per year, then he/she may not be right for you. An accessible tailor in those clutch situations for that perfect fit can be critical. Whether it's just before a formal event or quick button reattachment on your lunch break, your guy should be available to deliver.
7–Reliable—It’s one thing for your tailor to be available, but reliability is a different beast! You want to be sure he/she will do the job the way you want it, in the timeframe in which you need. All the skill in the world is overshadowed by the anxiety of not knowing if you’ll get your needs met.
8-Affordable—Unless he tailored the hem of Jesus’ garment, there’s no use overpaying for simple alterations. Once you get into more complex adjustments (shoulders, functioning button holes, etc.) then an increase in price makes sense.
9–Understands Body Types—Good tailoring doesn't mean squeezing a plus sized man into a suit, like a sausage in its casing. What's tight is tight and what's right is right. A good tailor should be able to fit any suit over your body type, as long as it’s not too tight. But remember, don't go more than two sizes up and leave your tailor with enough excess to make a "Mini Me" version of your garment.
10–Has Great Referrals—You wouldn’t turn to Google to find a brain surgeon; more than likely, you would get a referral. Apply the same logic to your tailor. You can try Google, but you never know what you’re gonna get! Instead ask a friend.
Top 5 Alterations That You Need and Then Some
1—Pants hem— This is an easy alteration that you could eventually learn to do on your own, but for now a hem is the bare minimum to be done to your slacks before you even wear them. Celebrities don’t drive brand new range rovers off the lot without changing the wheels (a minimum alteration), so why should you wear your pants without a minimum alteration?
2—Leg taper—I’m an 80's baby, so MC Hammer was cool when i was growing up. That was over 20 years ago.. Don’t have your dress pants looking like Hammer pants.
3—Jacket taper—The purpose isn’t to look tight, but to follow the contour of your body to give a streamlined, look. This involves opening up the lining of the jacket and the execution of precision cutting, so you’ll want to leave this to the professionals.
4—Jacket sleeve length adjustment—Whether you’ve got gator arms, or you simply need a few eighths of an inch taken off to show some shirt cuff, your tailor should be able to handle this one.
5—Waist/seat adjustment—For slim guys, this isn’t as common, but for larger or athletic build gents, with large legs and seat areas, you'll thank me for this one. In these scenarios, it's best that you purchase slacks one waist size up and adjusting the waist and seat areas as necessary. Either that or suffer the diaper butt look from stuffing yourself into those tight pants.
And then some..
Most tailors can handle the above, but if you’re all about taking it to the next level, you may want to seek out a tailor that can perform the following as well:
—Installing functioning buttonholes/buttons on suit sleeve
—Shoulder/chest adjustment
—Add or delete jacket vents
—Add pick stitching
—Micro-stitching/closing holes and rips in the fabric
Where to find them 🔎
Ask a friend—If they dress dapper, chances are that they have a tailor. My friends ask me all the time!
Check your favorite department store—My go to guy for quick fixes works for a department store. He’s pretty awesome. Ask tailors from your department store for references, if you need services they don’t provide.
Check your local dry cleaners— Some offer tailoring services on site
The reality is that to live your best life as a well-dressed gent, you need a tailor. In fact, you really can’t wear your suit or slacks without one, unless you want to look like the NBA Draft Day version of Lebron James.
Don’t be this version. Be like Lebron 2.0 (not the one that wore the short suit and man bag), get yourself a tailor and wear your clothes, don’t let them wear you!
Stay SUITABULL guys.