For my readers in Cali, Florida, Arizona, Bahamas and pretty much anywhere right now that hasn’t been experiencing single digit weather, I don’t like you..Ok, that’s not entirely true, I just don’t like the fact that you get to feel your fingertips this time of year while I’m here in New York fighting frostbite. I mean think about it, in the warm weather, you seldom need to worry about wearing an extra article of clothing to protect you from the elements. That means your dapper duds are on display all day, everyday without obstruction. Men like me have always frowned upon the cold weather for that very reason. NO MORE! Gents, it’s time to stop thinking of your coat as a necessary evil and start appreciating it as another extension of your well planned ensemble. That’s right, it’s time to turn lemons into lemonade, but wait who drinks lemonade in the cold weather? So I guess snowballs into snow-ade.. nope not that either can’t drink snow.. You know what I mean though.. Time to appreciate the fact that your overcoat, had, gloves and other accessories can add rather than detract from your look. Not as catchy but definitely makes more sense! Overcoat How many times have you suited up and shined your shoes, only to ruin it all by reaching for your trusty bubble coat that resembles the same one you wore during your senior year of high school? Well, here are some simple options for SUITABULL outerwear.
The Chesterfield If you’re wearing a suit and need a little coverage, this is the coat for you. It looks like a longer version of a suit jacket with heavier fabric, but does the job of a proper coat. Chesterfield coats are easily identified by their velvet collar. Because of the front opening (similar to that of a suit), you’ll need some chest protection for the extremely cold days. For better coverage a zipper vest is recommended. I use the slim puffer vest from Uniqlo in navy blue, which pretty much coordinates well with any coat color. Patterns and colors are kept simple and elegant with this variety of overcoat. Gray black or brown herringbone with a contrasting solid velvet collar are your go to here.
The Duffel Less formal and more of an all-in-one coat, the duffel coat is loved by tech professionals and weekend warriors alike. Comprised of a heavier “duffle”, or wool material, Duffle coats are slightly warmer, due to the kicker material and heavier fill used in Its construction . Scarves and vests are less necessary (unless it’s single digit weather) as the jack closure reaches the very top. And to top it off, a hood protects your dome from the elements without the problem of “hat hair.” Duffle coats are easily identifiable by the hornlike buttons and loop closure system. Not recommended for use with a suit, for that important meeting, but certainly works for a more casual occasion.
The Pea Coat The coat which became a staple in the wardrobe of a sailors across the world, battling wind, water, salt and grit, would surely suffice for today's man battling winter snow, rain and occasional bird poop from a low flying pigeon. The most versatile and timeless of the three discussed here, pea coats are easily worn dressed up with a suit, or more casually with a sweater and crisp pair of jeans. In it's original form, (navy blue, double breasted, large lapels and collars and large buttons) it's impossible to miss. However, with the variety available today (multi color and pattern, single breasted, smaller buttons or hidden closure), you're still able to enjoy the functionality while switching up your style. As originally intended for sailors, extreme weather will give cause to flip over your lapel and pop your collar for added coverage.
Layers
So what do you do on those days that you can actually feel your finger tips, but you don't want to drag that heavy coat along with you? I'm glad you asked! The simple answer, layer!
Thermals
A few years ago while prepping for my first ski trip, i learned about the power of base layer thermals. A base layer is a form fitting shirt or bottom worn directly on the skin to help maintain your body temperature. Composed in a variety of fabrics and weights, the intention is to keep your body dry, through the effective movement of sweat away from the body. The dryer you are, the warmer you stay. if your commute entails lots of walking during the cold months, I would recommend starting with a medium weight base layer and moving up as to a heavier weight as necessary. These will easily be concealed under your work or chill clothes.
Vests/Waistcoats
An easy yet stylish component to add, vests can also provide functionality in the cold months. find one that bests compliments your wears. If you're wearing a blue jacket, contrast with a darker or lighter hue, wool vest.
Sweaters
Not only meant to be standalone, a smart v neck sweater can add warmth and wow-factor to your look. A v-neck will provide a more contemporary look as opposed to a crew neck. Some quick tips as you consider color:
Blue Suit/Jacket works with--purple, royal blue, green, gray and burgandy
Brown Suit/Jacket works with--burgandy, auburn, hunter green
Charcoal Suit/Jacket works with--burgandy, purple or navy blue
Accessories
Headgear
Hats—you may be able to get away with naked scalp if you have a full head of hair and it’s above 50 degrees, but once that temp drops and or you’re sporting a mike Jordan baldy (either by choice or act of nature), you’ll need a good hat. Plenty of heat is lost up top so be sure to select a warm wool hat. For colder temps, opt for one with a fleece lining. And by all means, similar to the rest of your outfit, go fitted, no need for all that extra hat hanging off your head i... Unless your hat and suit are red, and your main mode of transportation happens to be by sleigh and reindeer.
For my guys with the short neat haircuts (wavy caesars of low fades), a synthetic scully, similar to those worn while skiing will fit nicely under the hat.
Earwear—whether you have hair or not, protecting your ears will also prevent heat loss. Though for the gents with the Robin Thicke or Justin Timberlake, perfectly coifed type of hair styles, earmuffs will protect the parts of your head still exposed to the elements and preserve your 20 minute mousse masterpiece. Opt for a flat black or brown color, or take it up a notch with a black and gray herringbone pattern. The “180s” brand makes them in all color ways!
Scarf
So many to choose from, but you will definitely want to grab at least one in charcoal gray and another in beige wool. Any brand will suffice, no need to break the bank, just make sure it’s wool! Play with plaid patterns if you choose, but solid will coordinate seamlessly with any style of outerwear. As the winter months progress, a pullover scarf(similar to those used while skiing will provide maximum coverage from neck to ears.
Gloves
Head and body are essential coverage areas, but you definitely wouldn’t want cold fingertips. Throw on a pair of gloves! It’s functional and for those with darker skin tones, it hides the ashy skin cause by the cold. In formal or business casual dress, leather gloves are essential. Grab a pair in cognac and another in black to round out your collection, However, if you’re only able to purchase one pair, go for a pair in chocolate brown, which I believe takes on a chameleon effect. When wearing light colors, it appears lighter, while wearing darker colors, it appears black. Simple as that!
Fleece lining in your gloves will keep you the warmest. Sure you can go for cashmere or fur lining, but I’ve frozen many of fingers with both.
Since leather is a naturally permeable material (after all it is cow skin), I wouldn’t venture outside for too long. For those long treks or that casual weekend look, grab a part of gloves with a wind resistant synthetic shell. Low profile will work since you’re only fighting wind, not Floyd Mayweather..
As you arm yourself to battle the cold over the next 2 to 3 months (depending on whether global warming decides to kick in), remember that you’re outerwear matters! If you treat it like an extension of what you’ve got underneath, you’ll always win.
Stay SUITABULL guys.