Shoes to an outfit are underrated like the mop guy at a basketball game. Most think, "yeah we need em, but they're not really that significant." Because of that, I would imagine that deep in the soul (not sole) of a pair of shoes, these feelings are happening..
Hey you, up there. Yeah you..You took so much time to make sure your creases are creased, cuffs are linked, and tie is knotted, but you forgot one thing... From the ankles up, you've nailed it, but I look like crap.
Yes, this is the conversation that many feet of the modern male have with their owners. So often, we men are dressed to the T and fail to give our feet the same treatment. Crisp suit, check! Pressed spread collar shirt, check! Windsor knotted silk tie, check! Shoes that look worse than if you were to walk outside, barefoot, CHECK. Don't let this be you. Pay attention and have your shoes be part of the award winning supporting cast to the rest of your attire. Here are a few points to help you navigate the various options on the market today. Armed with this knowledge you can feel confident in finding a go to shoe.
Types of shoes
Oxford- The most formal that you can get when it comes to shoes is an oxford, due to the rounded toe and closed lacing scheme, these are easy to identify but are often confused with the derby due to the similar variations. You will see these in plain toe, cap toe and brogues (better known as wing tips). This particular shoe provides a clean look when suiting up and remains a prime choice for black tie events.
Derby- As mentioned above, the derby is often confused with the oxford, due to their striking resemblance. All features appear to be the same, except for lacing. Whereas oxfords have a closed lacing system, derbys have an open lacing scheme that drops it down a notch on the formal scale. They can still be worn with a suit, but not with a tuxedo.
Monk strap- For the belt fanatic in all of us, now you too can have belt buckles on your shoes! The important thing to note here is that there are 2 main types:The monk strap, which is a singular buckle that crosses over the shoe from instep to outside.The double monk strap, yup you guessed it, has 2 (smaller) straps that cross over the shoe. The configuration is slightly different as shown in the picture, but still manages to take your dapper duds to the next level.
Loafer- A loafer could be perceived as a more relaxed shoe, but you can definitely dress it up if you have the right one. I prefer those with a longer vamp. The vamp is the top front part of the shoe that covers your foot from the ankle forward. A longer vamp lengthens the profile of the foot and gives a sleeker sexier appearance. Point of comparison: have you ever seen a Ferrari or Lamborghini with a short front end?
When it comes to loafer embellishments, you usually see 3 main choices, bare, bit or tassel:
Bare- Just leather, maybe a decorative slit at the top of the vamp, (don't you dare put a penny in it)
Bit- Usually a metal bar or leather piece connected from one side to the other. Named after its resemblance to the it placed in a horse’s mouth. Bits are popular on many high-end shoes from Salvatore Ferrigamo and Gucci.
Tassels (they come in twos)- Similar to bits, tassels add an element of eye candy to a loafer. They usually appear in he same fabric as the shoe itself. Tassels keep you fresh while giving a nod to the old school of satirical flare.
Color
There are a myriad of colors available from ash gray and light beige, all the way to royal blue and raspberry red. Three colors rise as the dominant leaders of the pack and can be worn in any situation.
Black- Great for tuxedos, even better for suits and formal meetings. Black shoes are best worn with suits or slacks of a darker hue: black (of course), grays and navy blues.
Stay away from: pairing with tan or lighter blue suits or slacks
Cognac- Perfect for most suit colors from light to dark. A sharp cognac or walnut colored shoe can offer great contrast to an otherwise decent outfit. It shows your willingness to step outside the box!
Stay away from: pairing with black suits or slacks. The starkness of a black pair of slacks will clash against the lighter shoe. For the same reason, cognac colored shoes are not as great for tuxedos, due to the black satin on the lapels (regardless of tux color).
Oxblood (Burgundy)- Less often seen, but making s comeback like The CAVS in the NBA finals (not this year though), is the burgundy or oxblood colored shoe. This color is for the confident man and shows a bit more variety in your arsenal. Pair this color with your blues, grays or black, but it's best worn with navy or gray.
Stay away from: Real Ox blood, because that would be pretty gross.
Fabric
Much like the style and color, the fabric of your shoe can turn the seriousness of your outfit up or down.
Patent leather- The most formal of the 3, patent leather is seen mostly with tuxedos. You usually don't see anyone at work or on the go wearing these (unless you're a cop, military officer, or just extra in everything that you do in life). The glass-like shine makes it ideal for your wedding or other formal event
Leather- Your every day fabric, and best friend, leather. Formal enough for a professional environment yet informal enough for a night on the town. The smoother the leather, the more formal it appears. You can reserve pebble or grainy leather for your weekend or "dress down Friday" outfits.
Suede- The least formal of the 3, suede can still be dressed up when done thoughtfully. The key is good tailoring of the remainder of your outfit. One could easily pair suede shoes with blue jeans for a night on the town.
Lacing
The lacing on shoes is pretty straight forward, but slight attention to detail can up your game.
Eyelets- These are the holes where the laces pass through. Dress shoes have neat, small eyelets, which provide a clean look. Whereas rugged shoes or the boot variety, more than likely will have wider eyelets with a metal rim (picture military boots here)
Wax On.. Wax Off- Laces are usually made of either cotton or nylon and are either with wax or without. One would see waxed laces on a more formal shoe, versus the laces without. Waxed laces also tend to have a thinner and sleeker appearance.
Color- Lace coloring is also simple, but important. Match the color of your laces to the color of your shoes. Not too difficult for black shoes, but becomes a bit tricky for brown shoes. For formal looks, lean towards a darker brown set of laces. Lighter laces will dress down your shoe for a weekend type of look.
Sole
Leather versus rubber... Traditionally a true dress shoe would have a leather sole, while boots have a rubber sole for traction. Nowadays either works well since; manufacturers are able to create thinner rubber soles to keep a sleek look. Gone are the days of the 2-inch thick sole, built for street racing instead of footwear.
The Everyday Work Shoe
Now that I’ve shared some basics, I’ll give you an example of my favorite Go To pair
Color- Cognac
Type- Cap toe oxford (by Allen Edmund)
Fabric- leather
Sole- Leather
My favorite pair works well in the office, at weddings (as a guest), at happy hour, and at church..Ummm yes, I said, happy hour, and church in the same line.. No judging guys.
Shoe Care
Shoe care is probably the most underrated part of the most underrated piece of an ensemble. So if shoes are like the mop boy, shoe care is like the mop itself.
Polish- Please, please, please have your shoes polished when they become dull. It’s about $3 to $5 if you are anywhere in Manhattan. so instead of going out for that second cup of Starbucks, shoe your shoes some love. Or you can purchase a can of polish and a brush and spend some quality time with your footwear. For the guy on the go, spring for a semi liquid polish with an attached sponge for a quick clean shine and buff with a towel for that extra touch. Kiwi makes a fairly good and inexpensive product sold in convenience stores everywhere.
Repair…not "one time" wear- When you sole get’s low take your shoes to a cobbler, not church (I said sole, not soul). Better known as a shoemaker to most, he or she, can get you going right again. The worse thing you could do to your shoe is run it the ground beyond repair. If the front of your sole is coming apart, and your shoes look like their talking, They are. They're saying, "HELP ME!" Shoemakers are capable of repairing, half soles, whole soles, heels, installing heel guards, and you’ll even get a nice shoeshine out of the deal. Shoemakers cannot raise the dead, so please bring him your shoes before you kill them.
Shoe Trees- Not only do shoetrees keep the form of your shoe when they aren’t in use, but they also absorb sweat, ensuring that the funk stays on your feet, instead of in your shoes. Pine is recommended, as the plastic shoetrees are easier to break and don’t provide the moisture absorption and odor preventative benefits. These are sold in your department stores such as Century 21 and should be purchased according to your foot size.
After digesting all of this info, I’m sure you’ll never dream of neglecting your shoes, or NBA mop boys again!
Stay SUITABULL guys.