Anyone that knows me personally or in passing knows that I love pocket squares. It's my signature. Its simplicity, and grandeur are mind-boggling. Who would think that something so simple could be such a game changer? With all of the options out there today, it could be just as mind-boggling to select the right one. But that’s what I’m here for right? So right now, I’m calling allll naked chest pockets. If you’re the owner of a suit jacket, sport coat or blazer, I’m talking to YOU. No longer do your chest pockets have to feel unappreciated an unclothed. Thanks to the variety out there today, anyone can dial up the dapper by supplementing an ensemble with a smartly selected 'square.
What’s that? Never heard of a pocket square, or don’t know where to start? Don’t worry; I’ll guide you through, so you can learn to find your own ‘Square route!
What is it?—So a pocket square also known as a ‘square, handkerchief or hanky, is a folded piece of fabric that is placed in the outer chest pocket of a jacket. Some of its original uses included decoration, cleaning the sweat from the forehead of a Baptist preacher, surrendering at war, commencing a drag race, polishing shoes, or for all the fathers out there, a substitute baby diaper. Nowadays, it’s purpose is really just two fold; for showin’ or for blowin’. Either you’re trying to step your look up, or clean out your nose goblins. I don’t recommend using a single ‘square for both purposes. Failure to follow this advice will have you in a sticky situation…literally.
Fabrics—Silk, cotton, linen or wool are your basic 4. Even still, I would start with silk and cotton) to keep things less complex.
Most pocket squares you'll see out there are silk. You'll notice these more than any other fabric type, since they have a sheen to them, which in term helps them to stand out more. Silk also stands out because of its contrast against most wool and cotton suits. The same fabric is used for most neckties, which makes this a worthy choice. Silk is strictly for showin' and is my personal favorite choice because it works for most occasions. Notice I said "most" occasions.
Enter, cotton. When I'm looking for that crisp clean look for client visits or interviews, I go with cotton. It's easy to fold and you can iron it for those extra sharp lines. Unlike silk, cotton can be used for blowin' as well as showin' (remember, just don't use the same one for both purposes).
Colors—In the spirit of building a solid foundation, start with the simplest color of all, white. It go with almost everything. As long as you're pairing it with a white or pale blue shirt, you will never go wrong. When worn with a dark suit serving as the perfect backdrop, draped over a sharp white shirt, complimented by a crisp white 'square is like art in motion. Another color that never fails is red. Buy your red ‘square in silk, the color pops a lot better. The same suit and shirt combo previously mentioned, whilst substituting in the red ‘square, will step you up from normal to notable.
Folds—There are dozens of folds out there today, from a simple square fold, to origami crane style fold. Going through many of the various folds deserves the honor of it’s own post, so I’ll review 2 of my “Go To” folds and reserve some of the others for a Part II post!
Simple ‘square (The presidential fold)-We touched on this one briefly, while reviewing the cotton ‘squares. This is the fold you wear for that crisp clean professional look at work, or at a formal event.
Lay the pocket square flat on a clean surface.
Fold the pocket square in half, from left to right.
Fold it from the bottom up, with enough length to fit the depth of your pocket.
Place the ‘square into your breast pocket with about 1/4 of an inch visible.
Puff ‘n Stuff (The puff fold)- If you’re looking for an easy way to make a statement with your semi-formal or casual outfit, this is it!
Lay the pocket square flat on a clean surface (most start this way).
Now pick up the pocket square by pinching it near the center.
Slide the hanky trough your other hand (like you’re wringing out water).
Halfway through, bend the pocket square in the middle (this is your puff)
Finally tuck the pocket square in your breast pocket with the puff side peaking out of the pocket opening.
Patterns—The aspect that I love most about pocket squares are the plethora of patterns available. There’s solid, striped, polka dot, paisley and so many more. Again, my advice here is to start simple. Go for a solid color. You are less likely to clash with your tie or shirt if you do. The rule of thumb is that your pocket square need not match your tie perfectly, so guy’s please put down the 3-piece combo set. Yes, the one where the shirt, tie and pocket square are the same royal blue color all for the "low low" price of $19.99. Even if it’s just the tie and pocket square that match; still GIVE IT UP. I’ll need you to take a little bit more risk than that… Come on, I know you can do it!
More than likely, your tie may have 2 or more colors within the design. You will want to choose a pocket square that complements the minority color. For example, if you have a Blue tie with thin red stripes, pick up a red pocket square. It will enhance you pocket while calling attention to the detail in your tie.
Quick hint, if your necktie happens to be solid, and you’d like to try a patterned pocket square, go for one with the same base color as your tie, with an incorporated white polka dot design! Check out some of my Instagram posts in the home page feed and you will see some examples of how to play with the combinations.
I’ve reviewed quite a bit on this post, but don’t be overwhelmed, just keep these few points in mind:
Start with Cotton
White is the easiest color to coordinate
Simple folds can still be bold
Patterns are meant to complement, not complicate. So start with solid or step up to a polka dot if you’re feeling risky.
Stay SUITABULL guys